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Patternless Leopard Gecko
Patternless Leopard Gecko

Patternless Leopard Gecko

$59.00

Species: Eublepharis macularius 

Length: 4-6 inches

Diet: insects

Image: Representative Image

SKU: A2107

Categories: Exotic Pets, Geckos, Leopard Geckos, Lizards

Patternless Leopard Gecko
Patternless Leopard Gecko

$59.00

Add to wishlist
SKU: A2107 Category:

Patternless Leopard Gecko Overview

The Baby Patternless Leopard Gecko is a stunning almost white colored gecko with blue eye spots. Our Patternless Leopard Geckos for sale are fed a healthy diet of mealworms and crickets.

Housing the Leopard Gecko

A 20-gallon tank is large, but there should only be one male per habitat; a bigger tank is preferable. Only keep males and females together if you want to deal with breeding. Old fish tanks that don’t hold water anymore also work perfectly well for leopard geckos.

Provide half logs as hiding and climbing space. Commercial reptile caves and simple cardboard boxes are also good options. A damp hide box can help with shedding.

Spot clean the cage once a day to remove feces. About twice a month, take everything out, throw out the substrate, and scrub and disinfect the cage and all the items in it to reduce the buildup of bacteria.

It’s also important to soak your gecko in a shallow pan of lukewarm water for about 10 to fifteen minutes once to twice a week. This will help with hydration and humidity. You might need to complete this process more often if your gecko is shedding.

Heat

You can use a regular white light incandescent heat bulb to provide a basking spot during the day. A red heat bulb, blue, or purple heat bulb, or ceramic heat emitter can provide supplemental heat at night.

Undertank heating pads work for heating, but they may not be the most effective for regulating your gecko’s temperatures properly. If your gecko burrows down to the glass surface of the tank, an undertank heating pad might cause burns. Never use hot rocks.

As cold-blooded creatures, reptiles need to regulate their own body temperature. Reptiles like a range of temperature or thermal gradient, so they can adjust their body warmth. Provide a daytime basking spot of 88 degrees Fahrenheit (31 degrees Celsius) with a thermal gradient down to about 75 Fahrenheit (around 24 Celsius). At night the temperature can drop to a range of 70 to 75 Fahrenheit (21 to 24 Celsius). Make sure your gecko is not exposed to any drafts, and do not place the tank next to a window or door.

Light

Being nocturnal, leopard geckos are most active at night and do not require a lot of UV lighting. In the wild, these creatures are also active at dawn and sunset and get UV exposure at those hours of scant sunlight. A small amount of UVA and UVB light (2 percent to 7 percent) can go a long way to keeping leopard geckos healthy and may reduce the risk of metabolic bone disease.1

Your lizard will need incandescent lighting and heat from that source to mimic the sunlight. In the summer, give them about 14 hours of “sun” per day. And, in winter, the lizard will need about 12 hours of that light. For ease of care, you can automate the cage lighting by putting the lights on a timer.

Humidity

These lizards are desert lizards, so they do not need a highly humid environment. If the humidity is too low (below 20 percent), the gecko might have trouble shedding. Keep the humidity level about 30 to 40 percent, which is similar to the humidity level in your home. You can use a regular screen top, coupled with the heat source, to keep the environment dry. To check on the humidity level, get a hygrometer or humidity gauge for the cage.

Substrate

Young Patternless Leopard Gecko shouldn’t be kept on a sand substrate, even if it is calcium sand. They may ingest the sand and suffer an intestinal blockage. Paper is absorbent and easy to change, and indoor/outdoor carpet works well, too. Reptile carpet is also a good option; it’s easy to clean and your gecko will move around on it well. There is also a low risk that your gecko will ingest this product.

Avoid wood shavings, since they can cut your gecko’s tiny feet. The volatile oils in the wood shavings may be irritating.2 Whatever substrate you use, make sure your gecko is not ingesting it.

Food and Water

Patternless Leopard Gecko are insectivores. Feed a variety of crickets, waxworms, and, in moderation, mealworms. On occasion, you can try to feed a pinky mouse to an adult gecko. To make sure that your gecko does not ingest any substrate, you can feed your gecko in an empty tank.

Juveniles need to be fed several crickets every day. Adults can skip several days between feedings. Before you feed the insects to your pet, they must be gut-loaded or fed a nutritious meal 24 hours before feeding. You will also need to coat the insects with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement before you feed them to your lizard. To do so, put the crickets or worms in a ziplock bag with some of the powder supplement. Shake the bag quickly and drop the insect into the tank with your lizard. Hatchlings and juveniles need the calcium/vitamin supplement at every feeding; adults only need it at every other feeding

You can also provide your gecko with a lick dish of the vitamin.

Provide a shallow dish of fresh water for your leopard gecko at all times. The water bowl will help add some humidity to the enclosure, and your gecko will drink from the bowl. You may even find a gecko voluntarily soaking in its water bowl.

Common Health Problems

One of the most severe conditions that can affect leopard geckos is metabolic bone disease. Just like humans, geckos become ill if they don’t get enough calcium and vitamin D. Metabolic bone disease causes painful spine and limb deformities.1

If you notice your gecko developing armpit bubbles, these are not dangerous. They are a sign that your lizard is storing something. These bubbles can contain fat, vitamins, protein, calcium, or other minerals and are common in overweight geckos. Usually, these bubbles go away when the lizard returns to a healthy weight.

Leopard geckos also are prone to gastroenteritis, which comes from a bacterial infection. If your gecko has watery stools or its tail shrinks, these may be signs of gastroenteritis. This condition is potentially fatal but is treatable if caught early.

And like other lizards, leopard geckos that are undernourished or live in a cage with insufficient moisture may develop dysecdysis. This condition, which looks like dry skin, causes the gecko to have difficulty shedding and can affect its vision or constrict their fingers or toes.3

Finally, leopard geckos are susceptible to a variety of respiratory infections, including pneumonia.3 Wheezing or bubbles of mucus around its nasal passages and mouth are a sign that your leopard gecko is having respiratory problems.

All of these conditions should receive treatment from an exotics veterinarian who specializes in reptiles.

Sex

Male, Female

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